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As you can see from the pictures of our lodging the camp is awesome. We have a tented room that looks over the savannah. I am reminded of the movie “Out of Africa”…. Glenn says I am a romantic… The service, setting and food are impressive and encourage you to return before you even finish your first day.

A short drive from our lodge and we were surrounded by game. We saw – lion, giraffe, zebra, antelope, hippo and more. Of course, had our mandatory sundowner stop and  enjoyed a glass of bubbly.

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We were off on a balloon safari which is why the early start, what a cool experience, highly recommended! We saw the Masai Mara from a completely different perspective, looking at the plains and escarpment from the air was exhilarating, felt a bit like I was in a movie and floating, not reality. The game were active – I learnt that the grass is actually patterned, it has animal tracks all through it, something I never realized (or saw) viewing game from a safari vehicle! Our trip ended with a rough ride to a champagne breakfast. On the way we ran into a pride of lions – 2 lionesses and 3 cubs. Andbeyond picked us up after breakfast and we joined our safari companions on a game drive. We decided to go looking for the lions we saw earlier, lucky us, our guide found the pride of 5, they had moved and were active and on the move. We followed them for some time, watching them walk, play, stop, look around in search of an entree. Eventually we had an awesome exclusive sighting. All other vehicles had left and we had the pride to ourselves. The lions seemed to be thirsty and went in search of water. As they approached a small pond, a hippo emerged and chased them off. The young cubs pretended to hunt the hippo and we watched as they chased each other around for a bit. Eventually the hippo wandered off grazing and the lions went in search of that entree. The adult lions found a lookout mound, they perked on top searching the horizon, nothing to be found. After some time, they decided to conserve energy and headed for shade and sleep. We went in search of a crossing at the Mara River – saw the most enormous crocodiles and multiple hippo pods. The hippos were in and out of the water and it was incredible to watch. Never seen so many, still quite large, ugly and generally inactive but managed to capture a yawn!!! Also captured some beautiful shots of the Topi (antelope) and Grey Crown Crane. It was a long morning and only got back to our lodge at 2:00pm. Lunch was fresh and light and just what we needed before some rest. Unanimous decision, cut our afternoon drive short and start later.

4:30pm and we were off again for some game viewing. Learnt two interesting facts:

• the trees dotting the savannahs that look a bit like Acacia trees are in fact Balanite trees.
• the Masai Mara is a public park and anyone who pays a fee can enter – the pop up van is the budget safari option and extremely popular, could not resist this picture, downside is sightings are not controlled!

Saw 4 of the big 5! Decided to skip looking for the male lions, our choice instead – sundowners and sunset. Glenn has discovered the local beer! We stopped on the way to our campsite, every vehicle that passed us was jealous. They were not as well prepared, we were the envy of camp!!! Finished off the evening with Glenn on guitar.

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1. Grumeti river
2. Sand river
3. Mara river

After some time a coffee stop under a tree was in order. We then found a spot at one of the crossings and watched the wildebeest and zebra interact and consider crossing the sand river. Interesting to observe how they approach the crossing – first a few head down, have a drink and walk most of the way across the river, almost to the sand back then dash back. This is repeated several times and goes on for hours until someone decides to cross, and the rest will follow, ONLY if they are ready. We saw 2 zebra and 5 wildebeest cross but the rest of the herd did not participate. Classifies as a “taster”. Interestingly the two zebra were quite anxious and crying out to the rest of their herd to follow. They did not, so the zebra went back over to join their herd!!! The behavior is interesting and reminds me why we have leaders… It was clear today there would be no major crossing and we headed to a late picnic lunch.

The lodge organized a bush dinner and our group opted for sundowners in the bush before dinner. Of course this meant a sabrage – pictures are evidence of my success with the machette!!! At dinner they had a roaring fire and Masai tribal dancers, most enjoyable. Our group were friends by now, the 4 of us decided to have dinner together and partied the night away – chatting , learning about each other and discussing subjects of interest. Shortly after 9pm I realized that we were the only guests left and shut down the place after 10pm. Another good night out with Christine and Glenn!!! Our drive back to camp was memorable – saw a male lion by the side of the road and about 7 or 8 hippo out walking and grazing. Great way to end our last night at Bateleurs Camp.

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A long day of travel that started off delayed while we waited at our dirt part – the departure and arrivals lounge. Our plane did not make it from its last stop due to a flat battery!!! They sent a second plane and when it eventually arrived it had to make 2 additional stops to accommodate other stranded passengers. Many of you know how much I love small spaces (and small planes), so the first short hop tested me, but I settled down and began to enjoy the flights and the scenery. By the time we landed at Migori airstrip, we were late and had a 1.5-hour road trip to tackle which included exiting Kenya and entering Tanzania, showing yellow fever certificates and buying visas for everyone but me – at least some countries like SA passports!!! The drivers hurried us along and drove like they owned the road constantly saying the “plane is waiting”!!! We made it safely and only 25 minutes late… Another small plane but I was becoming and expert at flying on “caravans”, the captain inspired me too when he mentioned the crossing may happen. As we approached Kogatende airstrip, we saw the crossing in action across the Mara River. Wow!!! Our pilot extended the trip and circled the crossing sight before landing. Amazing to watch from the air… like ants converging…

Kogatenda “airport” was a couple parked 4X4’s, a wooden fence, dirt airstrip and a windsock. We were welcomed by Serengeti under canvas staff who were ready to serve us coffee and tea, we wanted none of that, instead proposed to drive to the crossing sight to see if we can still catch it… Our guide obliged, and we were off racing through the bush as fast as one can go without any injuries. Of course, there were a couple of stops due to the abundant animal life and the avid photographer, moi. We got to Mara River crossing number 4 and thousands of wildebeest were milling around agitated and nervous, pushing, shoving, snorting, communicating and then heading down to the river. They ran as they get closer to the river, jumping off high banks, splashing, running, and swimming when needed, across the river. Then up the other side, if they make it across without being dinner for a croc and start milling around again, still quite agitated. Some headed off to fresh grass while a couple of hundred more confused wildebeest turned around and headed back across the river. A dream come true to witness this – one of the natural wonders of the world.

Some facts:

• 2 million+ animals – mostly wildebeest but also zebra, Thomson’s gazelle, eland
• They migrate route from South Serengeti to Masai Mara and back is a distance of 500 km’s but they estimate a given wildebeest travels about 3,200 km’s due to the back and fort
• 50% of new born wildebeest don’t make it to maturity

Eventually we arrived at camp welcomed by the staff singing in Swahili. We were in the heart of the Serengeti sleeping in large canvas tents complete with outdoor front porch, Persian rug, bathroom including flushing toilet, bucket shower and our own butler, Edward – not your typical camping, this was glamping at its best. The evening was not too cold, we were able to sit around the fire for sundowners and dinner. Almost full moon, feeling spoilt!!!

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We stopped for breakfast in the bush and were spoilt with homemade granola, papaya, muffins, boiled eggs and Kenyan coffee – delicious. Our view was hundreds of wildebeest across the savannah. We set off again and encountered more lions (this time sleeping), vultures – one had eaten so much he just sat perked on a stump too full to fly, carcasses, and then a male lion stalking a herd of wildebeest, an unsuccessful kill but awesome to watch. Still holding out for a kill. Lots of birdlife, two great moments:

• juvenile fish eagle by the river, managed to capture it taking off, majestic bird
• watching a woodpecker feeding

Headed back to camp after about 6 hours out. Time for lunch, as you can see from my photos we were spoilt – the perfect setting with the Serengeti as our backdrop, china and crystal table setting, and fresh beautiful food. Decided a glass or two of sauvignon blanc was required! Before our game drive, Edward prepared our hot bucket shower – good feeling to be clean again, the bush is pretty dusty – the saying goes “bush makeup”. For the afternoon game drive, we went in search of another crossing but no luck, saw lots of animal activity and enjoyed appreciating the “circle of life”. On our journey back to camp we stopped for sundowners in the bush, gin and tonics all round. Seemed appropriate. Back at camp Glenn had planned a romantic dinner for two at our tent, a great end to two days of “camping”. Wait there is more…

It was a noisy night with wildebeest snorting and communicating to each other around our tent, hyenas were in camp and even a leopard. In the morning we saw the droppings all around the side and back of our tent I did try to convince Glenn to go out the back of the tent in the early hours of the morning and take a look at how close they were, but he wanted none of that!

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Our goodbye from the staff was awesome, they sang to us and we all posed for the “leopard” (chui in Swahili – pronounced “chewie”) picture. Lots and lots of fun, long goodbye that caused a delay in leaving, yet again rushing to an airstrip, this time through the bush. Did have to stop for a quick photo of the bee catcher, such a beautiful bird.

Said our goodbyes to our fellow travelers from Singapore. Delighted to find out our flight was direct, had a beautiful 1-hour journey across the Serengti appreciating its beauty. On arrival at Manyara airport our guide served us a much-needed coffee and discussed the plan. We were joined by two tourists from Xian. It was a long and arduous journey to the lodge taking about 4 hours if you include the sightings and stop for a picnic lunch. Loved seeing the blue monkey and baby elephant. Delighted to reach camp and felt rather dusty. Last drive of the day fortunately.

Lake Manyara Tree Lodge is in the heart of the forest and we met another cool butler, Liberaty. This was a very different feel – traditional boma for dinner with oil lamps, big camp fire in the heart of the forest, a tree house for a room, a pool and even a tree house spa. My welcome – an already prepared luxurious bubble bath, ordered a bottle of bubbly immediately!!! Had a lovely romantic evening with Glenn and an early night.

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Time for some exercise, cycling through the Myoka community where you find the Mang’ati tribe. The cycle included a visit to the local school and then to the 3 districts – district C, B and A (in that order) to experience local village life. Then finally down to the lake, sadly no flamingos due to the heavy rains late summer but abundant birdlife for us to experience. 3 hours later we met up with our guide and enjoyed coffee by the lake before heading back to Tree Lodge. Felt good to exercise again and was much needed.

On arrival back at camp Liberarty said he wanted to show us something, we headed down towards the pool. There was a private table setting just for the two us for lunch by the pool on the edge of the forest. Very special. Sneaky vervet monkey decided he too wanted lunch and as soon the bread basket was put on the table he snatched a bread roll. We kept a watchful eye after that and the sneaky little bugger stole a second bread roll. When Liberarty arrived for the main course, he took the bread basket back to the kitchen, only solution! Lunch was shared dishes with an Indian twist.

Spent the afternoon relaxing and at last had time for a massage. After dinner did a night drive to learn about the nocturnal animals. Unfortunately missed the lunar eclipse due to cloudy skies.

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