Time for some exercise, did a hike up the Oloololo escarpment before breakfast, then the start of our onward journey. Magnificent view of the Masai Mara and the animal activity. Saw a fresh giraffe carcass with about 20 vultures at it, am sure the lions or hyenas would arrive later in the day! Had to say goodbye to Bateleur Camp and head for Tanzania. The giraffes were out to say goodbye too…
A long day of travel that started off delayed while we waited at our dirt part – the departure and arrivals lounge. Our plane did not make it from its last stop due to a flat battery!!! They sent a second plane and when it eventually arrived it had to make 2 additional stops to accommodate other stranded passengers. Many of you know how much I love small spaces (and small planes), so the first short hop tested me, but I settled down and began to enjoy the flights and the scenery. By the time we landed at Migori airstrip, we were late and had a 1.5-hour road trip to tackle which included exiting Kenya and entering Tanzania, showing yellow fever certificates and buying visas for everyone but me – at least some countries like SA passports!!! The drivers hurried us along and drove like they owned the road constantly saying the “plane is waiting”!!! We made it safely and only 25 minutes late… Another small plane but I was becoming and expert at flying on “caravans”, the captain inspired me too when he mentioned the crossing may happen. As we approached Kogatende airstrip, we saw the crossing in action across the Mara River. Wow!!! Our pilot extended the trip and circled the crossing sight before landing. Amazing to watch from the air… like ants converging…
Kogatenda “airport” was a couple parked 4X4’s, a wooden fence, dirt airstrip and a windsock. We were welcomed by Serengeti under canvas staff who were ready to serve us coffee and tea, we wanted none of that, instead proposed to drive to the crossing sight to see if we can still catch it… Our guide obliged, and we were off racing through the bush as fast as one can go without any injuries. Of course, there were a couple of stops due to the abundant animal life and the avid photographer, moi. We got to Mara River crossing number 4 and thousands of wildebeest were milling around agitated and nervous, pushing, shoving, snorting, communicating and then heading down to the river. They ran as they get closer to the river, jumping off high banks, splashing, running, and swimming when needed, across the river. Then up the other side, if they make it across without being dinner for a croc and start milling around again, still quite agitated. Some headed off to fresh grass while a couple of hundred more confused wildebeest turned around and headed back across the river. A dream come true to witness this – one of the natural wonders of the world.
Some facts:
- 2 million+ animals – mostly wildebeest but also zebra, Thomson’s gazelle, eland
- They migrate route from South Serengeti to Masai Mara and back is a distance of 500 km’s but they estimate a given wildebeest travels about 3,200 km’s due to the back and fort
- 50% of new born wildebeest don’t make it to maturity
Eventually we arrived at camp welcomed by the staff singing in Swahili. We were in the heart of the Serengeti sleeping in large canvas tents complete with outdoor front porch, Persian rug, bathroom including flushing toilet, bucket shower and our own butler, Edward – not your typical camping, this was glamping at its best. The evening was not too cold, we were able to sit around the fire for sundowners and dinner. Almost full moon, feeling spoilt!!!
