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Next was lunch – Wayne was desperate for jerk chicken… This was followed by a visit to the Kimironko Market. A local market that spans clothing to food and everything in between. Our driver wanted to show us some of the local produce including cassava, he survived on Cassava during his escape to the forest at the age of 8 with his younger brother who was only 6. We loved the experience and saw many firsts for example the tomato tree fruit. The photos of the market bring it to life…

We ended the day being hosted by Emmanuel Nkuranga at Choice Kigali – thanks to Wayne and Simonne who had purchased a painting on day 1 at the gallery. We toured the gallery (found a piece Glenn and I fell in love with and will return for) and tiered gardens then it was time for a tasting menu. After dinner we hung out by the fire pit drinking Chablis and looking over the city discussing a range of interesting topics. Feel blessed to have experienced this.

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Lunch was delicious – I opted for a glass of chardonnay and a vegetarian garden spread with a side salad. Our “room” was in fact a cottage built into the hillside made up of two oval rooms with windows that look out onto Mount Bisoke, sharing a central fireplace to keep you warm. Best described as pod-like thatched suites that blend into the forest, from a distance they look like eye’s staring at you. The lodge is focused on sustainable ecotourism and has a luxurious and private feel to it.

We got settled in and had some time to relax before gathering for sundowners and dinner. One of the pleasures of travel to remote regions in Africa is you always get to meet interesting guests and learn about their stories and experiences. Tonight, was no different, met a couple from Michigan and a solo traveler from Durban. Tried cassava chips with a pesto sauce, yum!

Ally is the lodge manager and she entertained us with stories and provided insight into the adventures we could expect over the coming few days. Love the photo of Wayne “holding court”. Our group had a fun dinner tasking great South African wines and wrapping up with grappa, Wayne’s influence… The food was so fresh, and my lamb bolognaise was just perfect. Suddenly we realized it was 10pm and we better get to bed as had an early start.

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The park is called Volcanoes National Park as it encompasses 5 volcanoes – Bisoke, Karisimbi, Muhabura, Gahinga and Sabyinyo and is 160 square kilometers and the area where Diane Fossey carried out her research.

A rather large group set off to do the Golden Monkey trek. More of a casual walk to the edge of the park where the golden monkeys live and they can do their daily foraging on the local farmers potato fields. Fun to see them interact and a nice introduction to the area. Managed to capture us meandering through the fields and a bit of village life. Given it was a short “trek” we opted to stop at Ellen DeGeneres Research Centre. Recommend this before you do your first gorilla trek as it provides some good education and insight into the gorilla troops.

I would say this trek is “a walk in the park” all levels can manage. Given all the rain it was muddy and we were very happy to have the rain jackets to keep us warm. Glenn took advantage of Benjamin and his personalized service – boots and gaitors removed for him, spoilt!!! Spent the rest of the day relaxing and hanging out at the lodge. 6pm we met for sundowners ad to chat to Alli. Aimable was there and made sure we were well looked after. The fireside chats and dinner conversations so enjoyable… and of course the cold beer and wine by the glass…

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On arrival we hired porters – something we did for each trek. Helps employ the local villages and supports the economy, this is encouraged and recommended because they play a vital role in getting you to and from the gorilla troop. They are extremely helpful with some of the tricky trekking situations. Emme took care of us and guided me through the muddy and wet forest. Holding out a hand to steady me and helped me at river crossings – avoided me face planting in the mud.

The hike was about 5km’s round trip through dense tropical jungle with only 70% on a trail and 30 hacked through brush with machetes. It took about 90 minutes to get to the gorillas. As soon as we neared them all protocols set in. Masks on, no bags and poles, that all remained behind with the porters who stayed back and waited for our return. Our guide and two trekkers took us in to meet the Kwitonda troop. Within 5 minutes we spotted the first gorilla and then spent 1 hour watch and following them. Exhilarating to see them interact, play, graze, groom and move from place to place. Finally, we got a silverback porn show. The chief silverback mated in front of us with one of the females, and at some point, one of the babies came to see what was going on.  During our encounter we kept our distance as best we could, but you do get close as they dash past or between us. The silverback you could touch when he walked past us and Wayne almost felt him as he moved – he was enormous. One of the babies ran past Simonne and touched her. Just before we left an adolescent gorilla ran between Glenn and a trekker who was 3 feet away from each other and grabbed Glenn’s leg on the way past – mistook it for a tree!!! Fortunately, Glenn was standing next to a tree as it almost knocked him over – he fell back into the tree and trekker put out a hand to stabilized Glenn.

Our time was up and we headed back down the mountain. Roger greeted us with smiles and a Tamarillo cocktail and key chain gift with the cocktail recipe and a gorilla as a souvenir. He is the best!!! Saw a sole street vendor and just had to support him – entrepreneurial villager for sure. We toasted to an experience of a lifetime!!!

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We set off on the hike up Mount Bisoke with two porters – Peter and Phocus. We were advised to do this and was our best decision ever. Well, as my friend Rich would say this was a “Christine death march”. We had expected it to be tough, but it was way beyond our expectations. We started heading up through the farmlands and then reached the wall of the park where we picked up 4 park rangers who joined us. They patrol for buffalo and keep the park safe. Emmanuel shared with us that the stone wall surrounding the park is 76km’s and stretches from Congo to Uganda and was built by the villagers. Once we entered the park, we continued our journey up the mountain through an African red wood forest until we reached an intersection where the trail spilt, and we got a short rest on some benches. Then it was off again up the mountain along a rocky and muddy path until we reached slightly lower vegetation and indigenous trees near the summit. About 1 hour from the top of the volcano I started to feel the effects of the altitude. Phocus was great, he encouraged me, and we took regular short breaks and sips of water to get me through. There was a moment where I wondered if I would make it… Glenn was a bit concerned as he could see I was struggling… but I made it, took all the courage I could muster. We reached the summit of Mount Bisoke, 3,711m above sea level. I was ecstatic – I had made it. The view was breathtaking, and we were lucky enough to see the crater lake. At last, a lunch break – much needed after that brutal climb. Then reality set in and we had to head down the slippery rocks, mud and treacherous terrain. This is when the porters were extremely useful as they put out a hand to steady you and guided you down and instruct you where to place your foot or to jump! On our descent we passed Sheryl Sandberg and her entourage – what a surprise!!! The descent was at quite a pace, we only stopped again at the benches for a brief rest before continuing. Evidence of the mud – look at Glenn’s boots. There was the threat of rain and Emmanuel wanted us to make it down before the rain which fortunately never came. We were only too grateful that it did not rain as that would have made the descent unbearable!!! I fared better on the descent than Glenn, been a long time since I pushed my quads that much. When we finally made it back to the 4×4 we were shattered.

Time – 6 hours 12 minutes

Distance – 11.1km

Vertical – 1050m

All I will say if you are not fit and adventuresome don’t do this hike.

Fact for the day -the white flowers are the pyrethrum plant (photo included below) – a safe and natural pesticide. They dry the flowers to make the pesticide.

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