We decided to be adventurous and get some exercise at the same time. In advance of our trip planned to hike Empakaai Crater and that is why we extended our visit to 3 nights. Turns out this was going to be another long day and Twalib suggested we hike both craters as Olmoti was on the way to Empakaai. Of course, we jumped at this (or I did) and said yes. Another 12-hour day, 7am to 7pm. We headed off in the mist driving along the rim of the crater. Wasn’t long and we had to stop for a lioness wandering down the road… Our next stop was at the gate to pick up the ranger, turns out we now had to pick up the ranger at the ranger station near Olmoti – hakuna matata.

After a 2-hour drive on rough roads, we arrived at the ranger station. This was also the start of our first hike, Olmoti Crater. The ranger carried an AK 47 for our protection! It took about 2 hours round trip to hike to the top of the crater and then down to the waterfall on the other side. Spectacular views. Interestingly, along our ascent we found fresh leopard tracks – looked like a mother and cub – but fortunately never ran into the leopard while hiking.

Back in the Landcruiser we headed for Empakaai, which took about 1.5 hours. This hike heads down into the crater to a salt lake with flamingoes at the edge. The hike takes you through dense forest before opening up to the perimeter of the lake. Spent some time at the lake taking photos and enjoying the environment before the climb back to the car. I think we did the ranger in, she had never done both hikes in one day and was exhausted!!! Enjoyed a “box” lunch at the top and then started the homeward journey. Weather was variable, but we were fortunate enough to see Ol Doinyo Lengai – a large volcano that is still active. Had a great (but long) drive back as the sun set – saw the Masai herders out in the fields returning home, general village life, beautiful open plains and constantly changing landscape at the “golden” hour… Twalib had to stop frequently for me to capture the moment on camera. Dropped the ranger off and on we went again. The last stretch to Ngorongoro Crater was a bit slow – bull elephant in the road, wild pigs and finally about 10 minutes from the lodge an injured male lion (looked like he had a broken hip and was limping very badly) and then a lioness and another male lion showing some interest in each other. A final photo opportunity before the light was too dull.

At 7:15pm as we drove into the lodge and were greeted by Pascal and the camp manager with a tray – 2 beers and a glass of chardonnay, we had all earned this and I think the staff were relieved to see us back at the lodge.  This was very late to still be out on a drive/activity. Pascal had a hot bubble bath waiting for me… The last one I will have until I am in HK as no bathing in Cape Town!!! We freshened up and headed for drinks and dinner at the main lodge. Ran into our traveling companions from Serengeti Under Canvas, hugs all round. Opted for a cellar wine for our last evening and then the biggest surprise of all – when we went to join the others for dinner they stopped us and led us to the wine cellar where they had prepared a romantic dinner for two. What a wonderful way to end our trip.